The Deacon, Lytham

A friend of mine always refers to Lytham as Harrogate by the Sea and I can see the rationale. Lytham Green could be compared to Harrogate's The Stray, both towns have an affluent air about them, and of course there are the residents, who carry their affluence so effortlessly.

It is hard to believe that Blackpool is only 20 minutes drive up the coast with the difference between Lancashire’s premier seaside resort and Lytham being disturbingly stark.

The Deacon in Lytham would probably not be as successful if it were 5 miles north in Blackpool. I can see why it draws the type of clientele it does. Its building was formerly The Williams Deacon and Company Bank, situated on the popular Clifton Square. The distinctive edifice has been restored sympathetically creating a modern British tavern.

There is a lot of dining competition in the square, even so The Deacon is busy with every table taken.

Thankfully they decided that the moody dance music they were playing on arrival was too dull for an early evening, it might be suitable for watching the sunset from the terrace at Cafe Mambo in Ibiza but watching the sun lower over the Ribble estuary does not really have the same effect.

The music that was played later was thankfully more uplifting, which suited the buzzing ambience.

Looking around nearly everyone is wearing sunglasses - even those in the shade. Most people have got dressed up and made an effort - probably because we have all been locked away for too long.

The al fresco menu is a limited version of what is normally on offer, but all the favourites are still there like fish ‘n’ chips (£14.50), 12oz Ribeye steak (£30.00) and Brisket Chilli Con Carne (£15.00).

As you might expect the Cocktail menu is popular and the Deacon Bramble (Beefeater Blackberry Gin, lemon juice, Creme de Mure with a touch of sugar) priced at £8.50 are amongst the best sellers.

The Mozzarella Garlic Bread priced at £5.00 makes a great start although the cheese tasted a little unauthentic to me, though the bread itself and the garlic was fine.

My Steak Sandwich (£12.00) came with beautifully cooked marinated steak in a grilled ciabatta, along with red onion marmalade, melted cheese, fresh iceberg lettuce and mustard mayonnaise. Portions are not huge but the quality of the food makes up for that.

There are no desserts until the restaurant fully opens from 17th May, though they do offer ice cream cornets from the side of the building.

I felt like I had discovered somewhere special with attentive staff, a good atmosphere and friendly service, which is not always something you can bank on.

Just remember to take your sunglasses!

The Deacon, 84 Clifton Street, Lytham
Telephone 01253 732529
www.thedeaconlytham.com